The Classification of Fabrics Page 14

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Traditional fabric

Each created item is identified with a code (a name and/or a number) to distinguish with
precision and convenience the various types of products, both in production arrangements and in relationships
commercial, which at the time of creation.
The traditional fabric is made up of the interweaving of warp threads (vertical) with a series of wefts (horizontal)
unlike knitted fabrics which are made up of a single series of threads which through a
curvilinear interweaving on themselves gives rise to the shirt.
Among industrial fabrics we mention non-woven fabrics (TNT), which are flexible textile surfaces obtained
for cohesion of fiber veils, generally synthetic. At the basis of the production of TNT is the
preparation of the veil, obtainable with a carding operation, which opens the fibers and arranges them in veils
parallel. The fiber plies can be held together by knitted binding threads placed through
a series of special needles which, by overlapping the layers, create the TNT. Another system to hold
uniting the plies coming from the carding, it uses the fibers themselves, forming actual needles with special needles
tying points.

In all cases the main dimensions relating to the piece are:
• the height, which is expressed in centimeters and is measured horizontally from one selvedge to the other
or in any case from one side of the fabric to the other;
• the length, which is measured in the warp direction from the head to the tail of the piece
(or in any case from one end to the other) and is expressed in meters with two decimals.
Selvedges, not present in knitted fabrics and non-woven fabrics, are made up of a certain
number of warp threads located on both sides of the fabric for the entire length of the piece.
The subdivision of fabrics for classifications can be done based on:
A. to use;
B. to drawing;
C. to the elements that compose them.

Classification based on use

In relation to the use for which they are intended the fabrics can be classified as follows:
1) Clothing fabrics
• Wool (female fabrics)
• Drapery (men's fabrics)
2) Furnishing fabrics
• Upholstery
• Linen
• Domestic use

Classification by drawing

Based on the design, fabrics are divided into three large groups:
1) Plain fabrics. Made on looms equipped with healds, they are the group that includes the majority of
fabrics for clothing, are divided into:
• smooth fabrics, which do not have any obvious pattern
• woven fabrics or with a woven effect, which have small designs obtained
with small intertwining effects.
2) Fabrics available. They are those that present large geometric design effects
straight and are mostly formed by combinations of several interlacings and are obtained
on looms equipped with healds. The width of the design is due to the system of passage of the threads in the healds.
This group includes both clothing and furnishing fabrics (damask tablecloths
checkers, blankets with Greek frill, etc.).
3) Textured fabrics. They are those that present large ornamental and curvilinear design effects. They are obtained on looms where the movement of the warp threads, rather than with healds, is obtained
with special machines (Jacquard, Vincenzi, Verdol or electronic) that "read" the weave
to be made from continuous paper forms or digital discs. This group includes the majority
part of the furnishing fabrics and particular types for clothing.
All tissues belonging to each of these groups can in turn be classified according to
to the construction or more precisely in relation to the number of elements that compose them.

Classification based on elements

Based on the number of component elements, fabrics are divided into two large groups:
1. Plain fabrics. That is, those tissues whose formation only two elements contribute: one
series of threads and a series of wefts.
2. Composite fabrics. That is, those tissues in whose formation a minimum of three elements contribute,
They can in turn be divided into several types, of which the main ones are:
to. three-element fabrics with double chain and a series of wefts or vice versa;
b. double, triple, padded fabrics, etc. with four or more elements. Doubles and triples are also called
multiple tissues.

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